How is the quality of a custom hat determined?

Hats are typically given an "X" rating by the hatter to indicate the material the hat was made from, and in turn, distinguish between the qualities of various hats. Orginally, the X was indicative of the percentage of beaver fur in the hat as compared to the other materials (typically wild hare). Each X would represent ten percent of beaver fur, so a 10X hat would have been 100% beaver, however, due to a lack of an industry standard, the X-based measuring system has become distorted and is now determined by the individual hatter. For one hatter, a 10X hat might mean 10% beaver, while another hatter might label the same hat as 100X.

At Buckaroo Hatters, we use three types of hat bodies to make custom hats from, 100X (100% Beaver), 50X (50% Beaver and 50% Wild Hare) and 10X (100% Wild Hare Fur). Ultimately, the quality of a hat is determined by the wearer. A hat which is well-fitted and appealing to you, while meeting your individual requirements, is all you need.

Beaver Fur

Beaver fur is the standard for measuring a hat's quality. The higher percentage of beaver in a hat, the better the quality. Beaver fur felts tighter, which results in a dense, light-weight hat with a thinner body that holds its shape in the rain longer than a lesser-quality hat. The more densely felted the hat is, the better it resists rain penetration. However, even a 100X hat will lose its shape eventually if left in the rain long enough.

Wild Hare Fur

Wild hare fur offers an affordable, yet durable alternative to beaver fur. It can also be felted fairly tight and is more commonly available. This results in a hat that is not only less expensive but softer to the touch as well.